Rich in stearic and oleic acid. Melting point ~34°C — solid at room temperature. Excellent skin feel, non-greasy. Use 5–20%.

Contains triterpenes with anti-inflammatory action. Unsaponifiable fraction notable. Rich, buttery feel. Prone to graininess if cooled too quickly — stir gently while cooling.

Technically a liquid wax ester, not an oil. Extremely stable to oxidation. Mimics skin sebum. Very low comedogenic rating. 2–30%.

Stable, saturated analogue of skin-native squalene. Lightweight, elegant skin feel. Non-comedogenic. Excellent for all skin types. 2–20%.

High in linoleic acid and trans-retinoic acid. Add in cool-down to preserve actives. Unstable — always pair with antioxidant (Vitamin E, Rosemary CO2). 5–15%.

Exceptionally high in carotenoids and Vitamin E. Intense orange colour — use at 0.1–2% or blend with lighter oils. Anti-inflammatory, wound-supportive. Add in cool-down.

~70% oleic acid. Rapid skin absorption, lightweight feel. High in tocopherols and sterols. Stable oxidative profile. 5–20%. Excellent for mature and dry skin.

Cold-pressed from apricot kernels. Rich in oleic acid (~65%) and linoleic acid (~25%) — a well-balanced emollient with excellent skin affinity. Lightweight, absorbs quickly without greasiness, and is particularly well tolerated by sensitive, dry, and mature skin. Good natural stability due to oleic acid dominance. Vitamin E and phytosterols provide additional skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory benefit. Versatile across face oils, serums, creams, and body products. Oil phase. 5–30%.

Balanced oleic/linoleic/palmitic profile. Absorbs quickly, non-greasy. Naturally rich in Vitamins A, D, and E. Moderate stability. 5–20%.

Extracted from the outer bran layer of rice. Rich in oleic (~40%) and linoleic (~35%) acids with a balanced fatty acid profile that suits most skin types. Notably contains gamma-oryzanol — a naturally occurring antioxidant with UV-protective and brightening properties. Also rich in Vitamin E (tocopherols and tocotrienols), phytosterols, and squalene. Good natural stability. Lightweight texture with excellent spreadability — suited to face creams, body lotions, and serums. Popular in Japanese skincare formulations for its brightening credentials. Oil phase. 5–30%.

Over 95% long-chain fatty acids — exceptionally stable to oxidation. Silky skin feel, slight occlusivity. Helps anchor fragrance. 5–20%.

~70% behenic and oleic acid. Excellent cleansing affinity for skin. Very stable to oxidation. Lightweight, non-greasy. Used in cleansers and moisturisers. 5–20%.

High in oleic acid, linoleic acid, tocopherols, and squalene. Skin-conditioning with antioxidant properties. Moderate stability. 5–20%.

High erucic acid content gives an exceptionally dry, silicone-like skin feel. Natural alternative to cyclomethicone. Excellent in serums and lightweight moisturisers. 2–15%.

~70% oleic acid. Classic skin-softening emollient. Moderate stability. Label with nut allergen warning if needed (UK/EU food allergen labelling crossover for rinse-off). 5–25%.

Hydrogenated jojoba oil — solid at room temperature. Creates a smooth, silky, non-greasy skin feel and a silicone-like slip. Excellent natural alternative to microcrystalline wax in sticks and balms. Structuring agent in creams for body-butter textures. Stable, non-comedogenic. Oil phase. 2–15%.

~90% ricinoleic acid — a hydroxyl fatty acid unique to castor. Unusually viscous and polar oil that creates a glossy, adhesive film on skin and lips. Excellent emollient for lip products, gloss balms, and heavy-duty skin protectants. In liquid form functions as a conditioning emollient and mild co-emulsifier. Heavy texture — best blended with lighter oils (Jojoba, Apricot Kernel) to balance skin feel. Very stable to oxidation. Oil phase. 2–15%.

Cold-pressed from safflower seeds. One of the highest linoleic acid (omega-6) contents of any carrier oil — approximately 73–79%. Linoleic acid is the predominant fatty acid in the skin's lipid barrier and is often deficient in acne-prone and dry skin types, making safflower oil a strong choice for barrier-repair formulations. Extremely lightweight with a fast-absorbing, non-greasy dry finish — one of the lightest emollient oils available. Excellent for facial serums, lightweight moisturisers, and oily or combination skin formulations. Non-comedogenic. High linoleic content makes it moderately prone to oxidation — pair with Vitamin E (Tocopherol) antioxidant and store in a cool, dark environment. COSMOS-approvable. Oil phase. 5–30%.

Also known as Tea Seed Oil — pressed from the seeds of the Camellia oleifera plant (a different species from Camellia sinensis, the tea plant). Traditionally used in East Asian skincare and haircare for centuries. High oleic acid content (75–85%) provides excellent skin-softening and moisture-retention properties, similar in profile to olive oil but with a notably lighter, faster-absorbing finish and minimal residual oiliness. Naturally rich in antioxidants (Vitamin E, polyphenols) supporting formulation stability. Well suited to facial oils, hair serums, and lightweight moisturisers. Non-comedogenic. Oil phase. 5–100%.

Very high stearic acid (~57%). Hard, brittle butter. Melting point ~39–42°C. Non-greasy, non-comedogenic. Used to harden balms and body butters. 5–15%.

High stearic and palmitic acid. Melts at ~34°C (body temperature). Moderate comedogenic rating — avoid in acne-prone formulations. Characteristic chocolate scent. 5–25%.

Natural wax. Melting point ~62–65°C. Primary structuring agent for lip balms, salves, and solid sticks. Also a co-emulsifier in w/o emulsions. Not vegan. 5–30%.

Vegan alternative to beeswax. Much harder — use at roughly half the % of beeswax. Melting point ~68–73°C. For lip products and sticks. 3–15%.

Hardest natural wax. Melting point ~82–86°C. Adds gloss and hardness to lip products and mascara. Use in small amounts — raises melt point significantly. 1–5%.

Vegan, skin-conditioning wax. Melting point ~75–80°C. Good emolliency alongside structuring. Used in balms, lipsticks, creams. 3–15%.

Naturally derived from sunflower oil. Melting point ~75–80°C. Creates smooth, non-tacky textures. Good skin feel. Excellent for natural deodorant sticks and lip products. 3–10%.

Pressed from the seeds of the murumuru palm, native to the Amazon rainforest. Solid at room temperature with a firm, waxy texture that softens quickly on contact with skin. Rich in lauric and myristic fatty acids, giving it strong conditioning and film-forming properties — widely used in natural haircare (leave-in conditioners, hair butters) as well as rich body butters and lip balms. Provides a smooth, non-greasy after-feel with good spreadability once melted into a formulation. Naturally rich in Vitamin A and fatty acids supporting barrier-conditioning benefits. Well suited to whipped body butters, hair masks, and intensive moisturisers for dry skin and hair. Melting point ~30–32°C. Oil phase. Up to 20%.

A well-regarded natural preservative combination. AMTicide Coconut (coconut fruit ferment filtrate) provides antibacterial activity; Leucidal Liquid SF (radish ferment filtrate) covers yeast and mould. Combined use at 2–4% each creates a broad-spectrum system. Must be validated with ISO 11930 in the finished formulation. Add both in cool-down phase (<40°C). Effective pH 3.5–6.5.

Geogard ECT (Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid) paired with additional Benzyl Alcohol for enhanced antibacterial coverage. ECOCERT and COSMOS-approved combination. Effective pH 3–6. Note: Benzyl Alcohol is an EU/Canada regulated fragrance allergen — declare individually on label if present above 0.001% leave-on. Must pass ISO 11930. Add in cool-down.

Sodium Anisate (from anise) and Sodium Levulinate (from levulinic acid, corn/sugar-derived) work synergistically as a natural broad-spectrum system. COSMOS and ECOCERT approved. Strictly pH-dependent — must be used at pH ≤5.5 for efficacy. Excellent for natural-certified formulations. Use Sodium Anisate 0.5–1.0% + Sodium Levulinate 0.5–1.5%. Must pass ISO 11930. Add in cool-down.

Glyceryl esters of caprylic acid (coconut-derived) and undecylenic acid (castor oil-derived). Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity with a secondary skin-conditioning effect. COSMOS-approvable. Works across a wider pH range than many natural systems — pH 4–7. Often supplied as a combined blend (e.g. Dermosoft GMCY). Use 1.5–3% total. Add in cool-down. Must pass ISO 11930.

Classic natural-origin combination widely used in food and cosmetics. Sodium Benzoate (max 0.5% EU) targets bacteria and yeast; Potassium Sorbate (max 0.6% EU) targets yeast and mould. Together they offer complementary coverage — but this system is weak as a standalone preservative and works only at pH ≤5.5. Best used as a booster alongside a primary system. Must be validated with ISO 11930 in finished formulation. Cannot replace a full broad-spectrum system.

Can be fermentation-derived. EU/Canada max 1.0%. Also an EU and Health Canada regulated fragrance allergen — declare individually on label above 0.001% leave-on / 0.01% rinse-off. Best paired with Dehydroacetic Acid or used as part of Geogard ECT system. Effective pH 3–7.

Effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould. EU max 0.6%. Best used with Benzyl Alcohol for full broad-spectrum coverage. Effective pH 3–7. Slightly off-white powder — dissolve in glycerin before adding. Pairs well in natural-certified formulations.

Gluconolactone (polyhydroxy acid) + Sodium Benzoate blend. ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. Effective only at pH ≤6. Mild, good tolerance. Must pass ISO 11930. Use 1–3%. Add in cool-down.

Vanilla/almond-scented preservative based on plant-derived esters, labelled as "Parfum" on INCI. Natural-friendly positioning. Must pass ISO 11930 — efficacy varies by formulation. Not suitable for fragrance-free products. ≤1%.

Antimicrobial booster and conditioning agent derived from coconut. Not a standalone preservative — use as a booster alongside a primary system. Improves skin feel. 0.3–3%.

Inhibits melanosome transfer → brightening. Upregulates ceramide synthesis. Reduces sebum. Well-tolerated. 2–10%. pH 5–7. Works at room temp in water phase.

A stable, ECOCERT and COSMOS-approved Vitamin C derivative — Ascorbic Acid bonded to glucose via a glycosidic bond. This molecular modification delivers significant formulation advantages over pure L-Ascorbic Acid: stable across pH 4–7 (no sub-3.5 pH requirement), does not oxidise or turn orange on the skin or in the formulation, water-soluble, and compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients. Converts to free L-Ascorbic Acid on the skin via enzymatic hydrolysis, delivering collagen synthesis stimulation, tyrosinase inhibition for brightening, and antioxidant protection at the skin surface. Excellent choice for natural certified brightening serums, Vitamin C creams, and antioxidant formulations where stability and ECOCERT compliance are priorities. Water phase. 2–5%.

Inhibits tyrosinase and Propionibacterium acnes. Excellent tolerance including in pregnancy. Cosmetic max 10%; prescription uses up to 20%. Warm to dissolve.

Potent antioxidant that doubles the photoprotective capacity of Vitamins C & E. Dissolve in ethanol or propylene glycol before adding to water phase. Typical: 0.5%.

Functional retinol analogue derived from Psoralea corylifolia seeds. Supports collagen synthesis and cell turnover without the photosensitivity, irritation risk, or EU concentration limits associated with retinoids. Safe in pregnancy. Light-stable. Add to oil phase or cool-down. 0.5–2%.

Lipophilic exfoliant — penetrates pores. EU max: 2% leave-on, 3% rinse-off. Optimal pH 3–4. Avoid in children <3 and pregnancy. Must label with age restriction warning (EU).

Glucoside of hydroquinone — inhibits tyrosinase without hydroquinone's safety concerns. More stable and effective than beta-arbutin. Water-soluble. Effective 0.5–2%. pH 5–7.

Inhibits plasminogen activator — reduces melanin synthesis. Excellent tolerance across all skin tones and types. Stable at a wide pH range. One of the most effective depigmenting cosmetic actives. 2–5%.

Contains glabridin — a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that reduces pigmentation without the irritation risk of Kojic Acid. Also strongly anti-inflammatory via licochalcone A. Well tolerated including on sensitive skin. Water or glycerin soluble. pH stable 4–7. 0.5–2%.

Naturally occurring nucleoside. Stimulates fibroblasts → collagen and elastin production. Anti-wrinkle activity. Excellent tolerance, no irritation. Water-soluble. Typical use 0.01–0.04%.

Polyphenol from grapes and Japanese knotweed. Potent antioxidant and sirtuin activator. Very low water solubility — pre-dissolve in ethanol or butylene glycol. Protect from light. Cool-down phase. 0.01–1.0%.

Extracted from oat bran — the most widely studied cosmetic beta-glucan. Linear 1,3/1,4-linked polysaccharide structure. Stimulates collagen synthesis, supports wound healing, and retains moisture comparably to hyaluronic acid in published studies. Deeply soothing — ideal for sensitive, dry, and compromised skin. Water-soluble, clear solution. INCI declared as Beta-Glucan. pH stable 4–8. 0.5–3%.

Derived from the cell walls of baker's yeast (*Saccharomyces cerevisiae*). Branched 1,3/1,6-linked structure — distinct from oat beta-glucan. Strongly activates skin immune response (Langerhans cells), accelerates wound healing, and stimulates collagen production. Research shows superior immunomodulatory activity versus oat source. Also used as a fermentation-derived natural active. INCI declared as Beta-Glucan or Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract. 0.1–1%.

Beta-glucans from Reishi mushroom (*Ganoderma lucidum*) — a premium cosmetic active with strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and adaptogenic properties. Polysaccharide fraction supports skin barrier, reduces oxidative stress, and has emerging evidence for anti-ageing activity via ganoderic acid content. Water-soluble extract. Add in cool-down to preserve heat-sensitive compounds. Also available from shiitake (*Lentinus Edodes*) and maitake. 0.1–2%.

Boswellic acids inhibit 5-lipoxygenase — potent anti-inflammatory pathway. Supports skin elasticity and reduces appearance of fine lines. Natural alternative to synthetic peptides. Add in cool-down. 0.5–2%.

Naturally derived from vegetable oils (sunflower, wheat germ). Potent fat-soluble antioxidant — protects oil-phase ingredients and oxidation-prone actives (Rosehip, Rosehip, Argan oils) from rancidity. Also provides mild skin-conditioning benefits. Critical distinction: Vitamin E prevents oxidative rancidity in oils. It has zero antimicrobial activity and will NOT prevent bacteria, yeast, or mould from growing in a water-containing formulation. It is an antioxidant, never a preservative. Add to oil phase or cool-down. 0.1–1.0%.

Zinc salt of PCA. Regulates sebum production and has antibacterial properties against P. acnes. Also a skin-conditioning NMF component. Excellent for oily and acne-prone skin. Water-soluble. 0.1–1%.

Contains salicin, converted to salicylic acid in skin. Lower irritation than pure salicylic acid. Cannot carry same "BHA" efficacy claims as pure SA. Anti-inflammatory polyphenols. 0.5–5%.

Gentlest AHA — larger molecule than glycolic. Exfoliates and hydrates simultaneously. EU: products with free acid pH <3.5 must carry UV warning. Rinse-off max 10%, leave-on max varies by pH. 2–12%.

Naturally derived from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) or candeia tree. Potent anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing active — reduces redness, irritation, and supports wound healing. Enhances skin penetration of other actives. Oil-soluble — add to cool-down phase. Excellent tolerance. 0.1–0.5%.

⭐ Hero Ingredient

Why it's a hero: Kakadu Plum (*Terminalia ferdinandiana*) is an Australian native superfruit holding the world's highest recorded natural Vitamin C content — up to 5,300mg per 100g, approximately 100× more than oranges. This extraordinary concentration of naturally occurring L-ascorbic acid delivers potent antioxidant protection, collagen synthesis stimulation, and melanin-inhibiting brightening activity — entirely from a plant source, with none of the pH instability challenges of isolated synthetic Vitamin C. Skin benefits: Brightening and hyperpigmentation reduction via tyrosinase inhibition. Collagen synthesis stimulation for anti-ageing support. Powerful free radical scavenging — gallic acid and ellagic acid provide additional antioxidant activity beyond Vitamin C alone. Anti-inflammatory via ellagitannins. Antimicrobial properties from naturally occurring compounds. Formulation notes: Available as a water-soluble extract (standardised to Vitamin C content) or a glycerin-based extract. Add in cool-down phase (<40°C) to preserve heat-sensitive Vitamin C. Stable across a wider pH range than many isolated Vitamin C forms — typically effective pH 3.5–6.5. Natural golden-yellow colour — accounts for slight tint in finished product. Pair with Ferulic Acid or Ascorbyl Glucoside for enhanced antioxidant synergy and stability. 0.5–5% depending on standardisation and extract concentration — verify Vitamin C % with supplier certificate of analysis. Claim potential: "Formulated with Kakadu Plum — the world's richest natural source of Vitamin C." Substantiate with supplier CoA confirming Vitamin C content and peer-reviewed literature on Terminalia ferdinandiana. A genuine, science-backed hero claim that resonates strongly with skin-intellectual consumers seeking natural efficacy. Sourcing note: Kakadu Plum is an Australian native species — look for suppliers offering ethically and sustainably sourced extract, ideally with Indigenous community partnership or fair-trade credentials, which adds significant brand story value.

A lesser-known member of the Vitamin E family, distinct from the more common Tocopherol — typically sourced from palm, rice bran, or annatto oil. Structurally similar to Tocopherol but with an unsaturated side chain that gives it superior mobility within cell membranes and, in published research, notably stronger antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity per unit than standard Tocopherol. Positioned as a premium antioxidant active rather than a simple oil-stabiliser — supports skin barrier function and helps protect against environmental oxidative stress. Choose annatto or rice-bran sourced grades to avoid palm-related sustainability concerns if that matters to your brand positioning. Oil phase or cool-down. 0.1–1%.

A polysaccharide derived from barley grain, offering a plant-based alternative to the more commonly used Oat or Yeast Beta-Glucans already in this library. Forms a light, breathable film on the skin that supports barrier function and helps reduce visible redness and irritation. Slightly different molecular weight profile to Oat Beta-Glucan gives a marginally lighter skin feel, useful in gel-based or lightweight lotion formulations where texture is a priority. Water-soluble. Well suited to sensitive skin formulations and post-procedure skincare. Water phase. 0.1–5%.

The smallest-molecule alpha-hydroxy acid, derived from sugar cane — its small size allows deep penetration, making it the most potent and fastest-acting AHA commonly used in cosmetics. Supports exfoliation of the skin's surface, helping improve texture, tone evenness, and the appearance of fine lines with regular use. Requires formulation at pH 3.5–4.5 for efficacy — must be paired with adequate buffering and photostability testing. EU/UK restrict leave-on concentration to 10% at pH ≥3.5 for general sale; higher concentrations are professional-use only. Increases photosensitivity — sunscreen use must be clearly directed on the label. Water phase, added after pH adjustment.

A larger-molecule alpha-hydroxy acid derived from bitter almond extract — its larger size means slower skin penetration than Glycolic Acid, resulting in a notably gentler exfoliation profile with reduced irritation potential. Often positioned as the AHA of choice for sensitive, reactive, or melanin-rich skin types where more aggressive acids risk irritation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Also carries mild antibacterial properties, making it a popular choice in formulations targeting both ageing and congestion concerns simultaneously. Requires similar pH formulation range to other AHAs (3.5–4.5). Increases photosensitivity — sunscreen use must be directed on the label. Water phase, added after pH adjustment. 5–10%.

Olive-derived O/W emulsifier forming lamellar liquid crystals that mimic skin's own lipid structure. Enhances active delivery. More technique-sensitive than conventional emulsifiers — heat both phases to 70°C, add water to oil slowly. 3–8%.

Sucrose ester emulsifier — naturally derived from sugar and fatty acids. COSMOS and ECOCERT approved. Forms stable O/W emulsions with a light skin feel. Good for natural certified products. 3–10%.

Pure glucose-derived non-ionic emulsifier. COSMOS and ECOCERT approved. Produces elegant, stable O/W emulsions with excellent skin tolerance. Pairs well with Cetearyl Alcohol (as fatty phase thickener) but does not require it — use alone for a lighter emulsion, or with Olivem 1000 for enhanced biomimetic effect. pH stable 3–9. Oil phase. 2–5%.

Polysaccharide produced by fermentation of Sclerotium rolfsii fungus. Excellent thickener and emulsion stabiliser — works synergistically with Xanthan Gum (use both together at lower individual levels for enhanced stability and texture). COSMOS approved. Cold-process compatible — no heat required. Creates a smooth, non-stringy gel texture. Electrolyte-tolerant. 0.2–1.0%.

Mono-ester of glycerin and stearic acid — naturally derived. Co-emulsifier that stabilises O/W emulsions alongside a primary emulsifier. Adds a pearlescent appearance and rich skin feel. Oil phase. 2–6%.

Polysaccharide produced by bacterial fermentation. Stabilises emulsions and suspensions. Disperse in glycerin before adding to water to avoid lumps. COSMOS-approved. 0.2–1.5%.

Modified cellulose thickener. Works without neutralisation. Produces clear to slightly hazy gels. Disperse in cold water, allow to hydrate, then heat to 70–80°C to fully dissolve. 0.5–3%.

Ground endosperm of guar beans. Naturally thickens and conditions. Disperse in glycerin or oil before adding to water to prevent clumping. Can feel slightly heavy at high %. Good for rinse-off and leave-on. 0.1–1%.

Castor oil that has been fully hydrogenated — converting the liquid oil into a hard, brittle wax solid at room temperature (melting point ~85–88°C). In this solid state it functions primarily as a rheology modifier and structuring agent rather than an emollient. Adds firmness, opacity, and gloss to lip balms, solid sticks, body butters, and anhydrous formulations. Increases viscosity and modifies texture in creams and ointments without contributing greasiness. COSMOS-approvable, naturally derived. Melt into oil phase. 1–10% depending on desired firmness — use at the lower end in creams, higher in solid balm formulations.

C16 saturated fatty alcohol — plant-derived (coconut or palm). Not a drying alcohol. Functions as a co-emulsifier and rheology modifier, thickening emulsions, improving stability, and giving a smooth, creamy skin feel. Melts at ~49°C. Commonly paired with emulsifiers (Olivem 1000, Cetearyl Glucoside) to boost emulsion stability and add body to creams and lotions. Also provides mild emollient conditioning. Oil phase. 2–10%.

C18 saturated fatty acid — derived from vegetable fats (shea, palm, coconut). Solid at room temperature, melts ~69–70°C. Thickens and structures emulsions, contributing body and a characteristic creamy skin feel. Acts as a co-emulsifier when saponified with NaOH (soap-based cream systems) or paired with a primary emulsifier. Stabilises the oil phase and reduces greasiness in body butters and creams. Oil phase. 2–10%.

A blend of C16 cetyl and C18 stearyl fatty alcohols — plant-derived (coconut or palm). Not a drying alcohol. A versatile co-emulsifier and rheology modifier that thickens, stabilises, and conditions emulsions. Melts ~49–52°C. Partners naturally with Cetearyl Glucoside (together they form Montanov 68-equivalent systems), with Olivem 1000, and with other natural emulsifiers to build stable, well-bodied O/W creams. Contributes a smooth, non-greasy skin feel and improves emulsion viscosity without heaviness. Oil phase. 2–10%.

Derived from coconut oil and glucose. Very mild and non-irritating. Suitable for sensitive and baby skin. Low foam — pair with Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate for richer lather. Effective pH 4–11. 5–30%.

Coconut/corn-derived. Slightly more foaming than Coco Glucoside. Excellent primary surfactant for natural cleansers. Stable pH 4–9. Pairs well with amino acid surfactants. 5–30%.

Glutamic acid-derived mild anionic surfactant. Best at pH 5–6 (skin-compatible). Creamy, rich lather. Excellent for sensitive and dry skin cleansers. Pairs well with glucosides as a foam-boosting secondary surfactant. 3–20%.

Coconut-derived mild anionic in solid form. Primary ingredient for solid facial cleansing bars and syndet (synthetic-free) bars. Leaves a conditioning feel unlike soap. Melts at ~70°C. 20–80% in solid formats.

C8/C10 glucoside blend. Stable at low pH — ideal for AHA/BHA cleansers where pH <4.5 is needed. Milder than standard glucosides at acid pH. 5–25%.

Oat protein amino acid surfactant. Naturally derived — COSMOS-approved. Very gentle, soothing lather. Excellent for sensitive, reactive, and eczema-prone skin cleansers. pH 5–7. 3–15%.

Potassium salt of coconut oil fatty acids — a true natural soap. Rich, creamy lather. Typically used at alkaline pH (8–10) — not suitable for skin pH formulations without buffering. Common in liquid soap bases and cleansing bars. 5–30%.

C12 glucoside. Good foam-boosting properties and thickening ability. Pairs well with Coco or Decyl Glucoside to enrich lather texture. COSMOS-approved. pH 4–10. 3–15%.

Glutamic acid-derived chelator. COSMOS and ECOCERT approved — the gold-standard natural EDTA alternative. Comparable efficacy to EDTA at binding calcium, iron, and magnesium ions. Enhances preservative efficacy. Water-soluble. 0.1–0.5%.

Derived from rice bran, corn, and legumes. Chelates iron ions — prevents oxidative rancidity and discolouration. Secondary brightening via mild tyrosinase inhibition. Adjust formulation pH after addition. COSMOS-approved. 0.1–2%.

Produced by fermentation of glucose. Mild chelating and humectant properties. COSMOS-approved. Best used as a booster alongside Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate for enhanced stability. 0.1–1%.

Fermentation-derived from sugar. Primary pH-lowering agent. Also a mild chelator. Use as a 10–50% aqueous solution — add dropwise and verify with a calibrated pH meter. COSMOS-approved. 0.1–5%.

Mineral-derived base for raising pH. Required to neutralise AHAs and HEC gels. Always use as a dilute solution (10% max). NEVER add water to NaOH — add NaOH to water slowly. Wear gloves and eye protection. Does not appear on INCI list when fully neutralised.

Naturally occurring mineral. Mild alkalising and buffering agent. Leave-on skincare limit: ≤ 5% — above this, alkaline pH disrupts the skin's acid mantle. Acceptable at higher levels in rinse-off formats (bath bombs, bath soaks) where contact time is brief. Limited buffering capacity — not suitable as primary neutraliser for concentrated acids. 0.1–5% leave-on; up to 50% in bath bombs.

Used at low concentrations (<3%) as a gentle pH adjuster rather than an active AHA. Skin-identical NMF component — gentler than citric acid on sensitive skin. COSMOS-approved. Note: contributes to total AHA load in formulation. 0.1–3%.

Naturally occurring mineral salt. Mild alkalising agent — gentler than NaOH. Useful for fine pH adjustments in natural formulations where strong alkalis are undesirable. Dissolve in water before adding. 0.1–1%.

Distillate of Rosa damascena petals. Contains phenylethanol, geraniol, and citronellol at skin-safe levels — gently toning, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating. Balances skin pH. Beloved in sensitive and mature skin formulations. Can fully replace distilled water. pH ~5–6. Still requires preservative.

Roman chamomile distillate. Contains isobutyl angelate and trace chamazulene — calming, anti-irritant, and anti-inflammatory. Excellent base for products targeting redness, eczema-prone, and reactive skin. Can fully replace distilled water. pH ~4–5. Preservative required.

Distillate of witch hazel bark and leaves. Contains tannins and hamamelitannin — naturally astringent and pore-tightening. Anti-inflammatory. Specify alcohol-free distillate (not witch hazel extract with isopropyl alcohol). Ideal in toners for oily, acne-prone skin. pH ~4–5. 10–100%.

Distillate of bitter orange blossom. Contains linalool, anthranilate esters, and nerol at low levels — mildly regenerating and balancing. Suits both oily and dry skin. Gentle enough for sensitive skin. Lovely in facial mists, toners, and emulsions. pH ~4.5–5.5. Preservative required.

Distillate of immortelle (everlasting flower). Renowned for anti-inflammatory, anti-bruising, and wound-supportive properties — contains neryl acetate and italidiones. Prized for mature and damaged skin, post-procedure recovery, and rosacea. One of the most therapeutically active hydrosols. pH ~3.5–4.5. Preservative required.

Distillate of Boswellia carterii resin. Contains alpha-pinene and incensole derivatives at water-soluble levels. Toning, mildly astringent, and supportive of skin elasticity. Particularly suited to mature and ageing skin formulations. Pairs well with Rose or Helichrysum hydrosol. pH ~4–5. Preservative required.

Inner leaf juice — not outer leaf (which contains aloin). Contains acemannan (beta-glucan), anti-inflammatory polysaccharides, and amino acids. Can fully replace distilled water. Verify inner leaf content and check 1:1 vs concentrate ratio. Still requires a full preservative system. pH ~4.5–5.5.

Fine starch powder derived from the arrowroot plant. Excellent natural alternative to talc — absorbs excess oil and moisture, reduces tackiness, and creates a silky, smooth skin feel. Used in dry shampoos, body powders, deodorant sticks, face masks, and as a texturiser in anhydrous balms. Non-comedogenic. 5–30% in dry formats; 1–5% in creams as mattifier.

Naturally occurring mineral. Neutralises odour-causing acids and creates CO₂ effervescence when combined with citric acid — essential for bath bombs. Leave-on skincare limit: ≤ 5% — above this, alkaline pH (~8.3 in water) disrupts the skin's acid mantle, risks barrier damage and irritation. In natural deodorants: keep ≤ 5% and pair with buffering agents (arrowroot, magnesium hydroxide) to reduce irritation on sensitive underarm skin. Higher concentrations (up to 50%) are acceptable in rinse-off formats such as bath bombs and bath soaks where contact time is brief.

Finely milled Moringa oleifera leaf. Rich in polyphenols, isothiocyanates, vitamins A, C, and E, and zeatin (a plant cytokinin with anti-ageing activity). Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Used in face masks, exfoliating powders, and bath soaks. Gives a natural green tint. For cleansing powder masks: 5–15% dispersed in base of arrowroot and clay. Stability sensitive — store away from heat and moisture.

Dried and milled baobab fruit pulp — one of the highest natural sources of Vitamin C (up to 10× more than oranges by weight). Also rich in pectin (prebiotic), calcium, and polyphenols. Used in face mask powders, bath soaks, and as a natural active in dry formats. Note: natural Vitamin C in plant matrix is less stable than pure L-Ascorbic Acid — antioxidant and brightening benefits are mild in finished product. Cream colour, subtle tangy scent. 2–15%.

White cosmetic clay — the mildest of the cosmetic clays. Gentle oil absorption without excessive drying. Excellent base for face masks, dry shampoos, and cleansing powders. Suitable for sensitive and dry skin. Non-irritating. Also adds slip and opacity to formulations. 5–50% in masks; 1–10% as texturiser in creams.

Rare glacially-formed marine clay harvested from deep ocean or glacial fjord deposits. Exceptionally rich in trace minerals, silica, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and iron — absorbed over thousands of years from glacial and marine environments. Superior detoxifying, adsorptive, and remineralising properties compared to standard cosmetic clays. Smooth, silky texture with strong negative ionic charge that draws positively charged impurities, toxins, and excess sebum from skin. Suitable for all skin types including sensitive — gentler than French Green Clay. Used in premium face masks, cleansing powders, and detox treatments. 5–30% in masks; 2–10% in cleansing formulations. Store in sealed container away from moisture.

Montmorillonite-illite clay. Higher absorbency than kaolin — draws out impurities and excess sebum. Green colour from iron oxide and plant matter. Best suited to oily, congested, and acne-prone skin. Avoid on dry or sensitive skin. Used in purifying masks and cleansing bars. 5–50%.

Broad-spectrum UVA/UVB mineral filter. EU Annex VI: max 25% in face products, 25% in body products. Use non-nano grade (>100nm particle size) — nano ZnO requires separate EU notification. Also soothing and antimicrobial at low %. Disperses in oil phase. White cast at higher %. SPF claims require ISO 24444 testing. 1–25%.